Café Pier takes over the old cabmen's shelter on Chelsea Embankment

06 June 2023

Dotted around the city, cabmen's shelters are a living piece of London's history, dating back to the late Victorian era when cabbies needed somewhere warm to sit and grab a bacon sarnie and a cup of tea. There are still 12 working shelters left in London, with access to those strictly reserved for London's black cab licence holders. But one recently restored shelter in Chelsea is about to open its doors to all Londoners.

Café Pier will be a perfect pitstop by the river for top-tier sarnies and weekend brunches. It's taken over a shelter called The Pier named after nearby Cadogan Pier. Built in 1910 the shelter had fallen into disrepair in recent years after the introduction of a red route meant that black cabs could no longer stop here.

Behind its revival are food PR Melis Kurum and her business partner Cem Kemahli who've joined up with chef Eduard Kunze-Concewitz who previously worked at World's 50 Best restaurant Mikla in Istanbul. There'll be fresh pastries and breakfast toasties in the morning including toasted sourdough with honey, kaymak (Turkish whipped cream) and chilli, moving to sandwiches like salami with butter and dill pickles at lunchtime.

It's going to be mainly takeaway - the shelters were only ever built to be the length of a horse and cart - but there will also be a lovely little terrace overlooking the river with room for 12 people.

Weekend brunches sound delightful with dishes including ham with Comte shavings, fudgy egg, capers and whipped butter and a ‘Watermelon’ radish salad, served with Ed’s bread.